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The Barrier+ Triple Lipid product line provides all the types of lipids found on the skin: both the lipids coming from sebum—squalene, triglycerides, free fatty acids, and waxes—plus those found in the stratum corneum— ceramides and cholesterol. Glycerol is added to help bolster the skin’s NMF content, and plant extracts provide multiple bioactive components.
Skinfix carried out a groundbreaking study on a regimen of Barrier+ Triple Lipid products that revealed more than superficial or temporary benefits for the skin barrier. The regimen was assessed in women with facial fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. They used the Foaming Oil Cleanser, the Triple Lipid-Hyaluronate Serum, and the Triple Lipid Boost 360 Eye twice daily, plus the Triple Lipid Peptide Lotion in the morning, and the Triple Lipid Peptide Cream at night.
Moisture content of the stratum corneum was increased by this regimen, and scores for overall health of skin, wrinkles, firmness, smoothness, and roughness were significantly improved.
What was particularly unique about this study was that levels of total lipids, fatty acids, and ceramides were significantly increased after four weeks of the regimen. In addition to providing squalene, waxes, triglycerides, and ceramides that coat the surface of the skin with smoothing and occlusive benefits, the effects of this regimen went deeper, stimulating the skin’s own production of lipids.
How could skin care products help keratinocytes to produce lipids? It could be due to improved hydration contributing to keratinocyte health. Ceramide, squalene, and other occlusive lipids sit on the surface of the skin, preventing water loss. And glycerol boosts the skin’s NMF content, attracting water to the stratum corneum.
Keratinocyte functions including lipid synthesis are also likely promoted by the slightly acidic pH of the products. And bioactive components from plant extracts contribute anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities that support keratinocytes and barrier stability.
In a second clinical study, Skinfix 911 Ointment was also shown to promote skin barrier health. In this clinical study of healthy women the ointment significantly reduced water loss through the stratum corneum, which is the most widely accepted measure of skin barrier function. This product contains allantoin at a clinical level for temporary protection of the skin after minor cuts and sunburns, along with barrier-supporting petrolatum, sunflower seed oil, shea butter, and aloe.
Other important ingredients we use for skin support include PCA, niacinamide, allantoin, coconut oil, and shea butter. Our Barrier+ Skin Barrier Restoring Gel Cream contains niacinamide for skin cell health and protection, squalene and allantoin for smoothing and healing, plus PCA to replenish the skin’s NMF. The Resurface+ AHA/BHA Renewing Cream contains healing coconut oil and shea butter, plus NMF-replenishing glycerol.
The Gene Expression Study
In most clinical studies on skin care products, the readouts are skin appearance and properties like hydration and elasticity. We can gain a deeper understanding of what is going on inside skin cells by measuring gene expression. Measuring which genes are turned on and off provides a better picture of short and long-term consequences for the skin.
What does it mean when a gene is turned on, or expressed? It means that the cell will use that gene as a template and produce the encoded protein. The proteins might be structural, such as filaggrin, or enzymes that synthesize lipids.
By looking at gene expression in a 3D model of skin, we’ve discovered numerous ways in which our patent-pending BL-3 complex—a combination of squalene, jojoba and macadamia seed oil esters, plus growth factors and an algal extract—promotes healthy skin. In skin cells, the complex:
In general, processes associated with barrier repair were upregulated, and processes associated with unhealthy skin were down-regulated.
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